Product Change Announcement - Please note that The manufacturer is no longer offering the Avenger power plenum in a carbon fiber sleeve. Hajimoto Productions has a limited supply of the carbon fiber sleeved power plenums in stock and when they are sold out, we will be shipping and installing the black satin finished version in our TacVenger builds.
Everything needed to convert your Air Venturi Avenger into a power-producing bottle gun. You get the 500cc Cylinder, Doux Tech Stainless Steel Bottle Adapter, Doux Tech Power Plenum, and the HP Barrel Band.
We also have Suppressors, Strip Stak Paks, Expanded and Mini Mags, for the Avenger as well all in stock which means you receive the order within 4 days typically!
We are now taking orders for the Umarex Dirty 30. All of the packages we offer whether it is the Ultimate Package or the simple Copper Package, all ship to you after we completely check and verify that the rifle is not leaking, all fasteners are checked, and the entire rifle is inspected for missing parts or damage.
We make sure the action is performing correctly as well as shooting the rifle three times and reporting the shot string details and target.
The barrels are inspected and thoroughly cleaned prior to shooting so when you receive your dirty 30 is ready to deliver some hurty! (sorry)
The JTS Airacuda line of PCP's is coming to Hajimoto Productions in the spring of 2022.
The two rifles that JTS is starting off in the Airacuda series are the Standard and the Max. The standard is a non-regulated conventional stock design PCP with transfer port power and hammer preload power adjustments. The standard also comes with side lever cocking and two magazines.
The Max is a regulated version with a slick thumbhole stock, side lever cocking, the barrel end is ready for your favorite moderator and has hammer preload power adjustment.
As some of you may know already, I have already designed some enhancements and performance packages for the series. Hajimoto Productions will be offering these models with enhanced performance and calling them the Hemi 'Cuda Standard and Hemi 'Cuda Max. I will be offering multiple packages that range from minimal enhancement to full-blown packages that include optic and compressor just like I do for the Umarex Gauntlet line of PCP's.
If you want to follow along with the progression of these amazing air guns, please consider joining our Facebook Group called Airacuda Owners Group. There are already a lot of photos, shot results, and discoveries relating to these incredible feature-rich PCP's.
Here is a sneak peek of the Airacuda series from our friends at DonnyFL. Izzy goes through the standard and the Max.
Today we are going to talk about preventative maintenance of your HPA system.
There are some expressions that we hear all the time and most are cliches at this point. One that fits this conversation is the “Out of sight out of mind” cliché. When it comes to operational maintenance there are varying degrees of maintenance, and each is dependent on how critical that maintenance is to keep the mechanism functioning and operating as the designer intended.
There are some folks that use a very basic visual flyover and if there are no fluids dripping or parts that have fallen off the equipment on the ground, it’s good to go. This cursory approach is ok for some simple mechanical devices like external pully or gear systems. High-Pressure Air (HPA) systems are not that type of low maintenance system.
Tanks, hoses, compressors, filters, and other parts that make up the HPA system, require regular maintenance and visual inspection.
Today there are so many affordable personal compressors available all of which have varying degrees of quality materials used in their construction, and because there is no way of knowing what materials are used, regular visual inspection is critical.
Most if not all these little compressors follow a similar design characteristic and that is a smaller and smaller footprint. This small portable design means they all suffer from the same issue and that is inadequate water/oil separation systems.
Proper water and oil separation need surface area and volume to cool, condense and separate. If there is not a dedicated quality filter/separator employed in an HPA fill source, major damage will occur to tanks as well as your precious air rifle and, in some cases, you!
Most folks see the small canister-type filter at the end of the fill whip and think that is enough. While something is better than nothing, that small device is only going to stop some moisture, oil, and large particulate but it will not be able to properly remove large amounts of water and oils from the air. There simply is not enough volume or surface area to properly condense the hot wet air and allow it to collect and separate in a properly designed chamber.
What happens is the warm air loaded with water vapor reaches the pressure vessel either your fill tank or your rifle’s air storage vessel and cools down. When it cools down, condensation takes place and all the internal surfaces of your tank or worse, your PCP becomes wet and starts to corrode.
Here are actual photos of what the inside of a customer regulator looked like after being exposed to water and corrosion. Keep in mind that that crap was being pushed into his air rifle which ultimately cause it to fail.
Over the years the paintball world has shown many cases of HPA tanks sitting for a long time that had corrosive water in the tank resulting in aluminum etching creating aluminum oxide powder puffing out the barrel with every shot. That white powder cloud is visual proof that the pressure vessel is eroding.
Therefore regular inspections of all of the internal passages of your HPA system need to be executed. Some manufacturers use chrome-plated carbon steel fittings which from the outside look fine but are rusting and corroding on the inside. When you fill your rifle with that air, you are pushing all that debris into your air tank or air rifle which as you can imagine jacks stuff up.
Rust and corrosion caused by zero maintenance
So, if you spare the cash on an HPA compressor but invest in a good quality water/oil separator combined with a regular inspection regimen, you will be fine. If you purchase a very good quality compressor with stainless steel fittings and quality air cooling/separation components, you will enjoy the sport more. Remember the golden rule as it relates to time and money, whatever you save on one, requires a greater investment by the other.
Ninja Paintball has finally delivered my long-awaited flex reg order from 6/2021!
The Flex Reg has went through some design changes but still operates exactly the same as before. You can expect 800 to 900 PSI of adjustable range. When ordering your Flex always think of what the maximum output will be and then subtract 800 from that. So if you think 2400PSI is your max then you would want the 1600-2400PSI. Again it is not uncommon to actually achieve a 900PSI and sometimes 1000PSI adjustment range.
The new design now has two burst discs, one to protect the high pressure tank side and another to protect the air rifle.
Notice the two burst disc's now
Please note, we build them to the maximum output so you will never exceed the maximum. So in the case of the 1600-2400PSI Flex I just described you could end up with 1500-2400PSI or even 1400-2400PSI.
I have 22.5ci Carbon fiber tanks in stock which fit the Gauntlet 1 tank shroud with a little sanding and the 22.5ci carbon fiber tank fits the Gauntlet 2 tank shroud with any sanding at all. You will just need to drill one hole in the bottom of the forearm tank cover so you can attach your fill hose.
The gauges will be on the left and the right in full view so there is no more looking on a slant below the barrel shroud to see your fill pressure.
The regulator is a 5/8"-18UNF thread so it can be used as a direct replacement to any original regulator configurations. It takes special tools and methods to separate a regulator from its tank. Most are red thread locker glued on.
We do offer regulator mounting services should you opt to have us do it for you but typically you will find that for only a little more money than the Flex and the mounting service you can purchase a tank and regulator built system.
Be sure to swing by and take a look at the different options available from aluminum tanks, carbon fiber to just stand-alone Flex regs that are built to your custom output request.
The difficult chambering issue is something that I have witnessed and documented in the past and there are a few things that you can do to alleviate some of the effort to chamber a round. I am going to get a bit geeky here but I want to describe what the internal of a bore look like from the breech end to the barrel.
Typically the breech will be just large enough to accept the projectile being offered and allow it to be transported by the pellet probe or cocking bolt into the chamber area of the barrel. Along the way to the final resting spot prior to firing the rifle, the projectile is being led into a narrowing transfer passage which introduces the projectile to the rifling. This chamber or lead-in (leed in) area of the barrel should be a smooth and gradual transition from breech to chamber. The Gauntlets breech to chamber transition is very steep and shallow. SEE PHOTO A BELOW
If you use a projectile with a fairly soft lead it will be able to be wedged past that very sharp and abrupt step you see there in the lead in but harder ammo like H&N or Crosman will be very difficult to push into that hard edge.
So what to do? There are a few things to consider.
If you continue to use the rifle and continue to chamber round after round after round that edge will soften over time or "break-in" but if you're in pain and the effort negates the interest to continue, that is not an option.
You can use only soft lead projectiles like JSB or FX which will require far less effort to chamber but that would limit your ammo choice and put you in what I consider "Premium Ammo Cost".
Physically working the problem, mechanically changing the chambers' current state.
Of these options, 1 & 2 really do not need any further discussion because they are what they are.
Option 3 means you void your factory warranty. So you will have zero recourse for any future warranty claims. Option 3 can be achieved in two ways.
Commission a gunsmith to execute the work.
Do it yourself.
Option 1, means you contact your trusted gunsmith like me and have them perform the barrel modification. If you do not have a trusted gunsmith and need one, ask around and get some opinions from your brothers and sisters in the airgun community. Hopefully, you will have someone local to you and it will make the modification a simple drop-off and pick-up affair.
Option 2, As I have publically demonstrated over the years, I am very much a DIY type of guy and I do not allow warranties to govern my level of enjoyment with a product that bought and own. Now please understand that I am saying that a $30,000.00 purchase falls into this category, I do apply reason to the situation and here we are talking about a total loss of $400 if I completely destroy the product. Which to be honest could never happen, at worse, I'd need to replace the barrel.
That said, there are a lot of means and methods to soften that hard edge or to deepen the chambering portion of the lead-in. It can and has been done by many DIY gunsmiths in the past. The best way is the way that gets it done for you. I have seen guys use a fine-tooth rasp and work those edges down by hand working through the breech, I have seen folks use a Dremel with finely tapered stone attachments, I have even seen folk purchase a tapered ream and work the transition. Any of those techniques will work but they have a risk of introducing inconsistency to the landings which can cause projectile deformity and possibly cause inaccuracy issues.
If you do take on the DIY approach, I recommend two variables be employed when doing something for the first time.
Work slow.
Be concentric.
Point number 1 means staying away from course or rapid material changes. Use very fine tooling, sandpaper, emery cloth, polishing papers, or what have you, this affords you the luxury of time. Take it slow and easy which will prevent catastrophic material removal leaving you with a worse scenario than when you started.
Point 2 means using something that keeps tooling in the center and that works all points of contact at the same time. This is where lathes come in handy because they help eliminate the runout (inconsistency along a length) that can be caused by doing things by hand but I am here to tell you, you do not NEED a lathe if you work slow and a concentric as possible.
One method that I used for years was the tapered and partially split wooden dowel method. It is achieved by using a wooden dowel close to the size of the bore that is sharpened like a pencil at one end and the tip is split down its length for the first 1.5"-2" to allow 2000, 3000, or 5000 grit wet sandpaper to be introduced. You can lock the barrel in a soft jaw vise and chuck the dowel in a variable speed drill motor or cordless drill. This tapered ultra-fine grit assembly is introduced into the breech and allowed to work that shoulder down and create a smooth polished ramp into the chamber.
https://youtu.be/eCRdtZB9tXY
An example of what the transformation would look like.
I can expand on this or other DIY means and methods but I am certain that you will find some content out there that will demonstrate what I have described above. Please let me know if you have any additional questions or comments.
Well here is a DonnyFL produced video that will help take the mystery out of size selection. It can be confusing but understanding the way your rifle is built is crucial to making the proper choice.
Watch this quick video and tell me if you have the same issue.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=erZ_K-Nn8sc
Have no fear, below is the step-by-step procedure to correct this very simple issue.
The issue is the 2.4mm tipped grub screw (set screw) fits into the detent hole in the bolt handle and is just not tightened enough resulting in a very safe mechanical interface but because the pin is in the hole of the handle, the handle rotates easily on that pin. The procedure will impart more tension on the set screw forcing the shoulder of the tipped set screw to bite into the bolt handle causing it to stop wiggling around.
The Corrective Procedure:
The rifle's bolt should be forward and the safety off.
Be sure the airgun is unloaded and uncocked by aiming in a safe direction and pulling the trigger.
Remove the retainer screw(s) for the foregrip and remove.
Remove the left and right stock to action retention screws.
Remove the long Phillips head screw in the bottom of the stock that holds the action into the stock.
Aim the safety lever down to allow it to clear through the trigger guard slot in the stock.
Push the action up and out of the stock; taking care to keep track of the black filler plug.
Loosen the rear trigger screw (Phillips head).
Slide it out only enough for the upper button cap to be removed.
With the button cap removed look inside the upper cavity and you will see a hex screw.
First loosen and then tighten the 2.5mm hex screw that is in the rear of the pellet probe which grips the bolt handle.
Reassemble the airgun.
Thats it! Now go have fun shooting your G1 or G2!
Please be sure to understand our return policies prior to making your purchases. All products offered on our website are intended for use on airguns only. It is a violation of Federal Law to use a product in a manner inconsistent with its intended labeling or use. It is the purchaser's responsibility to know the ordinances and laws of their state or county and to fully comply with them. Dismiss