Category: Hajimoto Productions Updates

The TacVenger Cometh

by Hajimoto

TacVenger airgun packages are available the first week of August.

We finally have all our parts in place to offer you all the Hajimoto TacVenger. You can choose from varying degrees of build and accessories which supports any budget looking to have a Tactical Avenger Build.

We will be offering airgun packages first which include a brand new Air Venturi Avenger and then a bit later we will offer DIY kits that match what is included in the Airgun Packages. Obviously, the DIY kits will not have barrel work or power tuning included because the DIY kits are for folks who already have an Avenger.

So if you've been waiting, it's almost over. If you had no idea, it's Christmas in July!!!

Thank you for your support,

In case you have not heard this rap yet, take a listen it hilarious

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nx34Ua_4SBA
My Parody on the Louis Theroux Jiggle Jiggle Rap. Mine is Trigger Trigger... Enjoy

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The Avenger Power Pak Combo

by Hajimoto

Everything needed to convert your Air Venturi Avenger into a power-producing bottle gun. You get the 500cc Cylinder, Doux Tech Stainless Steel Bottle Adapter, Doux Tech Power Plenum, and the HP Barrel Band.

We also have Suppressors, Strip Stak Paks, Expanded and Mini Mags, for the Avenger as well all in stock which means you receive the order within 4 days typically!

Head over to the product description for pricing and details.

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Umarex Gauntlet .30 Cals are in

by Hajimoto
Dirty 30 will deliver some hurty!

The G30 is here folks!

We are now taking orders for the Umarex Dirty 30. All of the packages we offer whether it is the Ultimate Package or the simple Copper Package, all ship to you after we completely check and verify that the rifle is not leaking, all fasteners are checked, and the entire rifle is inspected for missing parts or damage.

We make sure the action is performing correctly as well as shooting the rifle three times and reporting the shot string details and target.

The barrels are inspected and thoroughly cleaned prior to shooting so when you receive your dirty 30 is ready to deliver some hurty! (sorry)

See you soon!

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JTS Airacuda’s are coming

by Hajimoto

The JTS Airacuda line of PCP's is coming to Hajimoto Productions in the spring of 2022.

The two rifles that JTS is starting off in the Airacuda series are the Standard and the Max. The standard is a non-regulated conventional stock design PCP with transfer port power and hammer preload power adjustments. The standard also comes with side lever cocking and two magazines.

The Max is a regulated version with a slick thumbhole stock, side lever cocking, the barrel end is ready for your favorite moderator and has hammer preload power adjustment.

As some of you may know already, I have already designed some enhancements and performance packages for the series. Hajimoto Productions will be offering these models with enhanced performance and calling them the Hemi 'Cuda Standard and Hemi 'Cuda Max. I will be offering multiple packages that range from minimal enhancement to full-blown packages that include optic and compressor just like I do for the Umarex Gauntlet line of PCP's.

If you want to follow along with the progression of these amazing air guns, please consider joining our Facebook Group called Airacuda Owners Group. There are already a lot of photos, shot results, and discoveries relating to these incredible feature-rich PCP's.

Coming soon!!! Be sure to keep an eye out!

Here is a sneak peek of the Airacuda series from our friends at DonnyFL. Izzy goes through the standard and the Max.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPhTTTKJBaA
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Hajimoto is Flex’n again

by Hajimoto

Ninja Paintball has finally delivered my long-awaited flex reg order from 6/2021!

The Flex Reg has went through some design changes but still operates exactly the same as before. You can expect 800 to 900 PSI of adjustable range. When ordering your Flex always think of what the maximum output will be and then subtract 800 from that. So if you think 2400PSI is your max then you would want the 1600-2400PSI. Again it is not uncommon to actually achieve a 900PSI and sometimes 1000PSI adjustment range.

The new design now has two burst discs, one to protect the high pressure tank side and another to protect the air rifle.

Notice the two burst disc's now

Please note, we build them to the maximum output so you will never exceed the maximum. So in the case of the 1600-2400PSI Flex I just described you could end up with 1500-2400PSI or even 1400-2400PSI.

I have 22.5ci Carbon fiber tanks in stock which fit the Gauntlet 1 tank shroud with a little sanding and the 22.5ci carbon fiber tank fits the Gauntlet 2 tank shroud with any sanding at all. You will just need to drill one hole in the bottom of the forearm tank cover so you can attach your fill hose.

The gauges will be on the left and the right in full view so there is no more looking on a slant below the barrel shroud to see your fill pressure.

The regulator is a 5/8"-18UNF thread so it can be used as a direct replacement to any original regulator configurations. It takes special tools and methods to separate a regulator from its tank. Most are red thread locker glued on.

We do offer regulator mounting services should you opt to have us do it for you but typically you will find that for only a little more money than the Flex and the mounting service you can purchase a tank and regulator built system.

Be sure to swing by and take a look at the different options available from aluminum tanks, carbon fiber to just stand-alone Flex regs that are built to your custom output request.

https://hajimotoproductions.com/index.php/product-category/parts/regulators-tanks/

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Fat Boy is here

by Hajimoto

The DonnyFL Fat Boy 2.0 has arrived!

Be sure to check out the awesome modular suppressor that was just released by DonnyFL. The Fat Boy 2.0 is built like a soup can, The large volume area (2 x 4.25 inches), gobbles up noise, and fits all caliber between .177 to .30!

Because the unit ships with three different-sized air strippers, you have the versatility to install this on whatever PCP you're currently using. The air stripper is not an internal part and quickly and easily is swapped out from the front of the Fay Boy using a coin to loosen and unscrew the air stripper.

Be sure to snag one before they are all gone!

https://hajimotoproductions.com/index.php/product/fat-boy-2-x-4-inches/
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Gauntlet Hard Chambering

by Hajimoto

Hard to load your round into the bore???

The difficult chambering issue is something that I have witnessed and documented in the past and there are a few things that you can do to alleviate some of the effort to chamber a round. I am going to get a bit geeky here but I want to describe what the internal of a bore look like from the breech end to the barrel.

Typically the breech will be just large enough to accept the projectile being offered and allow it to be transported by the pellet probe or cocking bolt into the chamber area of the barrel. Along the way to the final resting spot prior to firing the rifle, the projectile is being led into a narrowing transfer passage which introduces the projectile to the rifling. This chamber or lead-in (leed in) area of the barrel should be a smooth and gradual transition from breech to chamber. The Gauntlets breech to chamber transition is very steep and shallow. SEE PHOTO A BELOW

If you use a projectile with a fairly soft lead it will be able to be wedged past that very sharp and abrupt step you see there in the lead in but harder ammo like H&N or Crosman will be very difficult to push into that hard edge.

So what to do? There are a few things to consider.

  1. If you continue to use the rifle and continue to chamber round after round after round that edge will soften over time or "break-in" but if you're in pain and the effort negates the interest to continue, that is not an option.
  2. You can use only soft lead projectiles like JSB or FX which will require far less effort to chamber but that would limit your ammo choice and put you in what I consider "Premium Ammo Cost".
  3. Physically working the problem, mechanically changing the chambers' current state.

Of these options, 1 & 2 really do not need any further discussion because they are what they are.

Option 3  means you void your factory warranty. So you will have zero recourse for any future warranty claims. Option 3 can be achieved in two ways.

  1. Commission a gunsmith to execute the work.
  2. Do it yourself.

Option 1, means you contact your trusted gunsmith like me and have them perform the barrel modification. If you do not have a trusted gunsmith and need one, ask around and get some opinions from your brothers and sisters in the airgun community. Hopefully, you will have someone local to you and it will make the modification a simple drop-off and pick-up affair.

Option 2, As I have publically demonstrated over the years, I am very much a DIY type of guy and I do not allow warranties to govern my level of enjoyment with a product that bought and own. Now please understand that I am saying that a $30,000.00 purchase falls into this category, I do apply reason to the situation and here we are talking about a total loss of $400 if I completely destroy the product. Which to be honest could never happen, at worse, I'd need to replace the barrel.

That said, there are a lot of means and methods to soften that hard edge or to deepen the chambering portion of the lead-in. It can and has been done by many DIY gunsmiths in the past. The best way is the way that gets it done for you. I have seen guys use a fine-tooth rasp and work those edges down by hand working through the breech, I have seen folks use a Dremel with finely tapered stone attachments, I have even seen folk purchase a tapered ream and work the transition. Any of those techniques will work but they have a risk of introducing inconsistency to the landings which can cause projectile deformity and possibly cause inaccuracy issues.

If you do take on the DIY approach, I recommend two variables be employed when doing something for the first time.

  1. Work slow.
  2. Be concentric.

Point number 1 means staying away from course or rapid material changes. Use very fine tooling, sandpaper, emery cloth, polishing papers, or what have you, this affords you the luxury of time. Take it slow and easy which will prevent catastrophic material removal leaving you with a worse scenario than when you started.

Point 2 means using something that keeps tooling in the center and that works all points of contact at the same time. This is where lathes come in handy because they help eliminate the runout (inconsistency along a length) that can be caused by doing things by hand but I am here to tell you, you do not NEED a lathe if you work slow and a concentric as possible.

One method that I used for years was the tapered and partially split wooden dowel method. It is achieved by using a wooden dowel close to the size of the bore that is sharpened like a pencil at one end and the tip is split down its length for the first 1.5"-2" to allow 2000, 3000, or 5000 grit wet sandpaper to be introduced. You can lock the barrel in a soft jaw vise and chuck the dowel in a variable speed drill motor or cordless drill. This tapered ultra-fine grit assembly is introduced into the breech and allowed to work that shoulder down and create a smooth polished ramp into the chamber.

https://youtu.be/eCRdtZB9tXY
An example of what the transformation would look like.

I can expand on this or other DIY means and methods but I am certain that you will find some content out there that will demonstrate what I have described above. Please let me know if you have any additional questions or comments.

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